Let us help you create your garden...

 Regardless of whether you are buying or selling, your home is possibly your largest personal investment.

If you are a new homeowner or just need a ‘new look’, Home & Garden Transitions, LLC will help you realize your dreams by designing a beautiful landscape for your yard and garden. 

When you sell your home, it is important that you get the best possible price.  Attractive landscaping creates curb appeal and increases the value of your property.
 About us and what you can expect:
With more than 45 years of experience as a landscape architect, Lorrie Henslee, provides comprehensive professional landscape design services.   We are confident that we can provide a plan that will meet all functional and aesthetic requirements that you may have.  For each project, the design will create solutions that are innovative and appropriate for the site.  We value the involvement and collaboration of the client throughout the process. We believe that each plan should reflect the physical, mental and spiritual attitudes of the users.

"Transform even the tiniest yard into something exceptional." ~ Lorrie & Lynn Henslee


December - 2011

  • Keep your garden well mulched to insulate the soil and reduce the occurrence of frost-heaving.
  • Continue to cut back dead, damaged or dying perennial top growth that offers no winter ornamental interest or food for the birds. Cut down to with in 2 to 3 inches of ground level or just above new foliage at the base.

November & December

November & December

  • Fertilize for strong root growth and weed control.

  • Plant anemones, crocus, daffodils, scillas, snowdrops, and bulbs listed in October using time-released bulb fertilizer.
  • Plant bulb at a depth equal to three times the height of the bulb.
  • Mulch with compost or pine straw to protect them from the winter cold.

  • Some perennials have showy seedheads that last well into winter. Some of these are blackberry lily, coneflowers, anemone, hibiscus, yarrow and grasses.


October - 2011

  • This is the time to plant crocus, anemones, grape hyacinths and daffodils en masse in borders.
  • Interplant giant onion (Allium) and crown imperial with shrubs.

  • Ferns can be planted or transplanted in the fall. Hardy ferns are best divided in early fall or very early spring – hayscented fern and ostrich fern have branching rhizomes on or near the soil surface.
  • Cinnamon fern develops a tangle of rhizomes and roots, so you will have to dig up the whole clump to separate them.

  • Add mulch to your perennial beds. Distribute a 2-inch layer of weed-free straw or chopped leaves to conserve soil moisture, protect root systems and reduce plant loss during the winter.
  • Do not fertilize this late in the year.
  • Cut back peonies hard after the first frost and do not compost the trimmings.
  • If your perennials are still producing seeds that attract birds, leave them as long as the seeds remain and them trim back and mulch for the winter.
  • Diseases:  Clean up the dead leaves from around your perennial flowers and disgard. If left on the ground the leaves and stems can harbor diseases.


September - 2011

  • If the cutting garden looks bedraggled, clear out the annuals that have finished blooming or are overgrown.
  • Sow seeds for marigolds, zinnias and other fast-growing annuals.
  • For one last showing, fertilize with Osmocote (14-14-14) or similar leggy plants that were cut back.
  • Apply fungicide to control fungal leaf spots and powdery mildew.

  • It’s time to plant garden mums, asters, ironweed, Joe-pye weed, goldenrod, Japanese anemone, Mexican sage.
  • Ornamental grasses make great choices for fall: maidenhair grass, pink muhly grass, feather reed grass, switch grass, penniestums, carex and acorus.
  • Dig, divide and replant overcrowded beds of beebalm, daylilies, Shasta daisies, coreopsis, etc and other perennials and shrubs.

  • Pull out stakes and remove cages as plants finish for the year.
  • Keep newly planted transplants well watered to help them establish quickly.
  • Fertilizing is not necessary this late in the season. Allow perennials to go dormant.

  • Insects: Check for snails and slugs and set out bait for them.
  • Diseases: Remove infected leaves and clean up fallen leaves and discard them. Fungicide is not necessary this late in the year.


 August - 2011

    • Roll back 12-inch squares of turf 3 to 4 inches deep to check for grubs. Treat only if you find 5 or more per square foot.

    • The following bedding plants root easily, allowing you to preserve your favorite varieties for next year: geraniums, impatiens, coleus and wax begonias. Ornamental cabbage and kale can be planted now for fall color and texture.

    • Now is the time to divide and/or move perennials to other parts of the garden or share them.  Be sure to mulch and water thoroughly when transplanting. Some of the best performers are sedum, balloon flower, butterfly weed, daylily, coneflower, hosta, Lenten rose, shield fern and thread leaf coreopsis. Bearded iris should be planted and/or transplanted with the tops of the rhizome exposed. Do not mulch your bearded iris.

  • Continue to water thoroughly after plants have ‘dried out’.

  • Avoid excessive fertilizing.
  • Never skip on building up the soil with organic mulches and compost.

  • Deadhead annuals and spent perennials to encourage late-season blooms.
  • Nematodes: microscopic organisms that live in the soil and attack the roots of plants.
  • Insects and mites: Aphids and spider mites.
  • Diseases: Fungal leaf spots, powdery mildew – remove and discard infested plants.
  • Weeds: Continue to slowly hand pull and remove.


July - 2011

  • Fertilize warm-season grasses.
  • Apply grub control products.
  • Use mulch to form wide tree rings around tree trunks. Avoid creating ‘volcanoes’.
  • Continue to prune spring-blooming shrubs such as roses, hydrangeas and rhododendrons.

  • Alyssum, calendula,  fox-glove, money plant and Sweet William

  • Divide Daylilies, butterfly weed, bleeding heart, Oriental poppy, Butterfly weed, Maltese cross, Purple coneflower, Shasta daisy, Yarrow, speedwell, valerian

  • Water thoroughly so water penetrates the soil deeply.
  • Wait until the soil becomes dry in the upper inch or so before watering again.

  • Continue to deadhead spent flowers to improve appearance and prolong the blooming period.

  • After pruning or pinching your perennials, fertilize them to speed up recovery.
  • Apply a slow-release fertilizer, Osmocote (14-14-14) or similar.
  • Water afterwards to avoid burning and help release nutrients.

  • Insects and mites: Aphids, spider mites, Japanese beetles and whiteflies.
  • Diseases: Southern blight occurs during periods of high temperatures and in moist soils. This fungus attacks the stem and moves up rapidly, killing the tissues. Remove and discard infect plants. Leave the area fallow for 6 months or longer or use fungicidal soil treatments.
  • Weeds:  Continue to remove weeds by slowly hand pulling weeds out of the flowerbed.


June - 2011

  • Fertilize warm-season grasses.
  • Apply grub control products.

  • Use mulch to form wide tree rings around tree trunks. Avoid creating ‘volcanoes’.
  • Continue to prune spring-blooming shrubs such as roses, hydrangeas and rhododendrons.

  • Cosmos, cleome, marigold, Mexican sunflower, portulaca, sunflower, whirling butterfly and zinnia

  • Balloon flower, beebalm, chrysanthemum, phlox, salvia, Shasta daisy, coreopsis, coneflower and veronica.

  • Water thoroughly to encourage deep rooting.

  • Use a slow-release fertilizer, Osmocote 14-14-14 or similar when planting.
  • Apply general fertilizer to established plants.

  • Deadhead achillea, bellflower, baby’s breath, columbine, pincushion flower, speedwell, and salvia.
  • Stake asters, Joe-Pye weed, and other tall growing plant material to avoid breakage. If you don’t want to stake, prune the perennials to control height.
  • If you do prune the perennials you may reduce the blooms.

  • Insects and mites: aphids, slugs and snails, spider mites and thrips, Japanese beetles.
  • Diseases: Avoid overhead watering and remove spent flowers and dead or dying leaves. Powdery mildew on phlox and beebalm. Remove infected plants and discard them. Thin out the plants to improve air movement. Apply fungicides when symptoms appear and continue until they are gone.
  • Weeds: Slowly hand pull or hoe out weeds. Suppress with a layer of mulch.


May - 2011

    • Heat loving annuals – African daisy, ageratum, celosia, cockscomb, marigold, impatiens, geraniums, New Guinea impatiens, coleus, globe amaranth, zinnias, whirling butterfly and petunias are reliable. Check labels for sun tolerance.

    • Yarrow, coreopsis, purple coneflower, gaura, reblooming daylilies, garden phlox, veronica, speedwell, hosta, ligularia, sedum and verbena are reliable. Check labels for sun tolerance.                                                                                               
  • Water your perennials from below and limiting water on the leaves to avoid leaf spot disease.
  • Water at least once a week to help establish a good root system. Do not let plants dry out!

  • Use a slow-released fertilizer, Osmocote (14-14-14) or similar when planting.

  • Watch out for aphids and whiteflies on coreopsis, chrysanthemums, sedums and verbena
  • Snails and slugs appear on hosta, ligularia, and acanthus.
  • Insects and mites: Aphids, spider mites and whiteflies are often found on chrysanthemums, coneflowers, daylilies and phlox.
  • Proper spacing with plenty of air movement will reduce fungal infections

  • Deadheading perennials helps to control ‘volunteers’ from appearing throughout your garden and promotes re-blooming.
  • Thin out phlox and other perennials to allow good air circulation. Thinning helps prevent disease (especially powdery mildew), improves the appearance of the plants and produces sturdier stems.


April - 2011

  • Mow at a height of 3 to 4 inches.
  • Check for grubs and apply pesticide as needed

  • Renew or add mulch to your planting areas to retain moisture, retard weed growth and build soil.
  • Apply slow release fertilizer, Osmocote or similar (14-14-14).
  • Plant summer-flowering bulbs using bulb food as you plant.
  • Pinch garden mums, aster, beebalm, Joe-pye weed, pink turtlehead, speedwell and sedum.

  • Approximately three weeks after the last freeze when the soil temperatures have warmed, plant cosmos, gomphrena, marigold, portulaca, sunflower and zinnia. Check the labels for sun tolerance. Annuals can be planted as well such as petunia, impatiens, and geranium.

  • Approximately three weeks after the last freeze when the soil temperatures have warmed, plant your perennials. The following is a list of perennials that bloom longer than a month:  Yarrow; Chrysanthemum; Coreopsis; Purple coneflower; Gaillardia; Gaura; reblooming Daylilies; Russian Sage; phlox; Black-eyed Susan; Pincushion flower; Veronica; Verbena, Speedwell, Sweet William. Check the labels for sun tolerance.

  • Insects: Aphids and whiteflies on coreopsis, chrysanthemums, sedum and verbena. Slugs and snails on hosta, ligularia.  Treat slugs and snails on hosta, ligularia and others with herbicide or Bug-Geta.
  • Diseases: Botrytis blight attacks peony buds causing them to turn black and shrivel up. Remove and dispose of infected plant parts and apply a fungicide as new shoots emerge.
  • Weeds:  Apply pre-emergent herbicides in your planting areas before planting.
  • Three weeks after the last freeze, apply slow release fertilizer Osmocote (14-14—14) or similar when planting and fertilize established plants as well.  Milorganite 10-10-10; Hollytone can also be used.


March - 2011
  • Now is the time to apply pre-emergent herbicide on lawns to control crabgrass, goosegrass and foxtails.

  • Remove weeds, leaves and dropped flowers from beds. Place 2-3 inches of mulch on the beds to reduce weeds and improve soil condition.
  • Prune out all dead, diseased and damaged wood from woody ornamentals. Corrective pruning can be done now, but no more than 1/3 of the plant’s size. Prune spring-blooming shrubs after they bloom.
  • Cut shorter ornamental grasses to 4-6” in height.
  • Divide aster, astilbe, beebalm, garden mum, phlox, rudbeckia, Shasta daisy as they start to appear.

  • Insects:  Flower thrips damage bellflower, daylily and peony flowers. Remove and discard thrip-infested flowers.
  • Disease: leaf-streak on daylilies. The reddish-brown streaks and browned out spots indicate a fungus. Discard leaves.
  • Weeds: Slowly pull out the weeds, making sure to remove all roots, and discard.

January - February

JANUARY – FEBRUARY - 2011                          
  • Apply pre-emergent crabgrass preventer
  • If weeds are growing, treat them with a post-emergent broadleaf weed herbicide.
  • Remove all tree leaves from the lawn and add them to your compost pile.

  • Cut back old foliage on grasses and most perennials, exceptions: lantana, verbena and salvia.
  • Severely cut back buddleia in February. This plant blooms on new growth.
  • If you planted conifers, be sure to keep them watered.
  • Fertilize winter annuals like pansies for good flower production. Don’t forget to deadhead them

Watering Your Garden...

The home gardener has several ways of irrigating the garden: a watering can; a garden hose with a fan nozzle or spray attachment; a portable lawn sprinkler’ a soaker hose; or drip or trickle irrigation.  Most of these options are simple to use and work adequately.  While drip or trickle irrigation requires special equipment, it is the best method to use for conserving water. The watering can and hose are fine for small gardens. When watering with the hose. The low-pressure stream of water should be direct to the base of the plant and not the foliage.    
Sprinklers:  Overhead sprinklers offer a wide range of watering patterns and area coverage’s.  They are convenient but not very water-efficient. During hot, windy days, especially with small droplet sizes, a considerable amount of water is lost to evaporation.  Also, many sprinklers deposit less water as one moves outward away from the source.  The sprinkler heeds to be placed at staggered locations to provide adequate overlap; this usually results in an over application of water beyond the plant’s needs.  Oscillating sprinklers apply water more evenly than overhead sprinklers and can be easily adjusted to cover square or rectangular areas.  Watering the foliage with a sprinkler may increase disease problems; however, watering in the early morning should reduce the chances for disease outbreaks.
The soaker hose is an inexpensive and easy watering device.  It is a hose made of plastic or canvas tubing that allows water to seep out all along its lengthy at a slow rate. Water is conserved because the flow is directed into the ground near the plant with little loss to runoff or evaporation.  The gentle stream of water causes little or no compaction of soil or splashing of muddied water on plans.  The problem comes when the soaker hose gets covered by soil or leaves and becomes stopped up.        
Finally the drip or trickle system has emitters ideally suited for flower beds or container gardens.  Short tubes, or emitters, come off a main water supply hose.  The emitter places the water directly at the roots of the desired plants leaving leaves and blossoms dry.  The drip system allows the gardener to replace the water lost on a daily basis.  By including a filter or self-flushing emitters in the system to prevent clogging, the drip system is a cost-efficient irrigation tool that uses a minimum amount of water.        
Gardeners should be aware of periods in the development and growth of plant material when an adequate amount of water must be available.  Generally, the first few weeks after planting and transplanting and during the development of flowers or storage organs are times when plants may be adversely affected by shortages of water.          
Prepared by Bob Polomski, Extension Consurer Horticulturist, and Debbie Shaughnessy, HGIC Horticulture Specialist, Clemson University

Yay! The weather is gorgeous!

Springtime in the Mountains!!  We are ready!